Spinning the Globe — Going from Vienna to Amsterdam


Spin me!

Hello followers! Last I left you we were in Hungary, sharing how Budapest wasn’t exactly as we’d expected. I don’t want to skip any of our journey, so let me share a word or two about each of the other European countries we spent time in during the past few months.

Vienna, Austria, is a sculpted masterpiece.

It’s in the top 5 most beautiful cities in the world for me

It’s as if the city streets themselves are a museum in Vienna. Details on the sculptures around the city are vibrant and create a story in your mind, capturing more than a stagnant moment. While here, Jason and I indulged in currywurst from street carts and ate apple strudel in memory of my dad. Viennese coffee has whipped cream on top, in case you wanted to know what indulgence tastes like.  Nearly next to our hotel was a 50 tap craft beer bar that almost featured Flying Dog (they were out when we were there). While hanging by the bar we saw a guy wearing a Capitals sports team hat. Jason asked which sport the Capitals are and he said hockey. Fun! The US and Czech Republic seem to have the same idea for great team names. Ha! Travel magic.

One of the world’s oldest amusement parks

Vienna has one of the oldest amusement parks in the world and, while we didn’t ride any rides or play any games, it was a treat just to walk through this treasure. It was made in the days of World’s Fairs. Why don’t we do those anymore? Le Sigh.

Other Viennese activities including strolling by Freud and Mozart’s homes and going to a museum completely dedicated to globes of the world. It We only stayed a few days, with an entire evening spent mulling over whether we leave our shitty Airbnb or not, but that just meant we got to have a beer at an adorable bar and played “Let’s learn English!” with our bartender. She said/motioned that she had something that would make us more comfortable. What it was, we weren’t sure, but when she finally brought it out for us we told her it was a “seat cushion”. She laughed, waved her hand, and said that wasn’t a word she’d be remembering. I don’t blame her, how often do you use the words “seat cushion”? She was adorable and the bar was Native American themed, so all was right in the world.

Fried and fatty food delights! Apple streusel, pork schnitzel, and chicken cordon blue.

Krakow, Poland, is a craft beer lover’s haven.

Panorama of Europe’s largest square

Krakow is a city we weren’t sure about. We thought we’d have to choose between here and Vienna, but the stars aligned and we were able to go to both! Krakow has a booming craft beer scene that we absolutely did not expect. They love the microbrew culture far more than any other country we went to, minus possibly Belgium, but the feel here is different than there regardless. The town square in Krakow is the largest in Europe and, my goodness, if you want to feel like you’re in an old European city you get that fully there. We made it a point to have pierogies several times, but we never drank any Polish vodka. Probably better that way!

We met up a friend from home and had an amazing night with Craig while he was on his Eastern European tour. It was so nice to see a familiar face. Most people think you come to Krakow to jump off and go to Auschwitz. There’s so much more here than a concentration camp. It has multiple layers of history and beauty. Krakow is an underrated destination that I’d love to visit again.

Prague, Czech Republic, lives up to the hype.

Beautiful blue Prague skies

This artsy, busy, quirky city still manages to be fairly affordable. Our Airbnb was the pinnacle of charming, although getting in the right room was an adventure! After a 6 hour train from Krakow we made our way through downtown to a tram that we just could not figure out how to purchase tickets for. That left us walking with our packs in the heat up a tall hill for miles until we found our apartment building. When we walked up a women who spoke only a few English words said, “Where are you from?” We said, “We have an Airbnb.” She said, “Follow” and took us to an indescribably small apartment that didn’t remind me of any reservation we’d made. After a few minutes I said to Jason, “This isn’t right! We have to find our host!” We connected to the apartment’s wifi and sent a quick message to our host who told me she was waiting outside. Great! We found her right away and checked into our perfect little abode. After learning the basics we devised a plan to get the keys to the other couple who must be wondering where their Airbnb host is. We walked out to the drive and, with perfect timing, a young British couple walks up looking for their apartment. I yelped, “Have we got a story for you!” and promptly showed them to their room. Jason and I were both a flutter with excitement, but neither of these two seemed to find the situation nearly as funny or entertaining as we did. Their loss! In the end everyone had what they paid for and we got a great travel story to share.

Pano of Prague

The thing I love most about Prague is it’s a tied layer cake. With the coming of every historical era, Prague stacked building after building firmly on top of itself, giving a literal depth to this city. Our Airbnb was situated very closely to a large park with beautiful vistas, a weird art museum, and a woodland gay bar. Looking back on places like this, it’s hard to believe they exist, that I got to see them, and that I’m not still there still today!

That look when you find a random craft beer festival. We were just going to the farmer’s market! Thanks, Prague!

Berlin, Germany, is fresh.

Green beer! Berliner weisse and burgers.

Berlin is newer than many European cities and even newer than some in America. The sad truth is it was basically bombed to the ground during WWII. This tragedy laid the fodder for a progressive outcry and vibrant art scene. This was my second time in Germany, having went to Munich years ago, but first time in Berlin. Being in these places feels like going to separate countries. The contrast is like time traveling in some ways, as Munich wants to preserve that old world feel and Berlin couldn’t even if it tried. Even though it’s been proven wrong through ancestry reports, I grew up believing I had a deep German heritage. You can’t erase that thought from your childhood, or the memory of all those beer steins that lined your kitchen counters. Germany, now as much as ever, holds a special place in my heart. (We’re Norwegian, by the way!)

Being beer people, we did enjoy sampling the more traditional varieties of brews. German beer purity laws, Reinheitsgebot, are to be taken very seriously and have been existence since 1519. The law states that only water, barley and hops may be used to brew beer. How Berliner weiss (green beer above) came to be is another story. We didn’t find any big Munich style beer halls in Berlin, but we did find a few artsy spots and smaller breweries that tickled our fancy. Beer and BBQ, yes please!

Various works of art in Berlin. Top Left: from German Museum of Industry, Bottom Left: Native American nuclear street art. Top Right: punk JFK street art. Middle Right: artistic co-op. Bottom Right: Das Monsterkabinett

Brussels, Belgium, means business.

Brussels is where the European Union is headquartered and the whole city seems to have an aura of seriousness. Stupidly, Belgium wasn’t originally on our list, but after mapping out our European route we thought we had to go and drink some of the world’s greatest beers. So, we split our time between here and the Netherlands and dug into Belgium brews, chocolate, waffles, and fries. We didn’t realize how many of our favorite foods originated from Belgium until we were there! The Belgium waffles, made on the street, available for 1 Euro with powered sugar, was one of the best desserts I will ever eat. Gooey on the inside, but perfectly crispy on the outside and just the right amount of sweetness. Belgium beers are known for their high alcohol content, so it’s good to stuff yourself with bread products before copious amounts of sampling. While in Belgium it rained and rained and so we rested up, ate frozen pizza, and enjoyed our quiet Airbnb, knowing we had days and days of nonstop travels ahead of us.

Cantillon, an old lambic style brewery, located in a sketchy neighborhood, but producing some of the tastiest gueuze beer we’ve ever had.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands, is the best of Europe.

Postcard from Amsterdam, Vondelpark

Friendly, free, liberal, artistic, stunning architecture, people powered transportation, quirky, green, vibrant… I could do this all day. I’m in love with Amsterdam. The first time I went to Amsterdam it was a fucking disaster. I will not share details, but I was not in a good headspace and I it resulted in me having a terrible time. Truthfully though, I knew Amsterdam was, for me, an oyster with a pearl waiting to be cracked open and revealed. It was the absolute must see place on Jason’s list for Europe and, honestly, it was on mine too. Cheers to the power of second chances!

Amsterdam doesn’t judge what you do. If you choose to spend your day relaxing in Vondelpark, watching the people go by and admiring an array of birds and peoples, you surely can. If you fancy finding a sex worker and doing drugs all day, no problem, that’s your choice. If you want to take a canal boat ride and skip the sinfulness entirely, than by all means, right this way. Engaging in professional business transactions? Carry on. The Dutch are a glorious folk who embody a live and let live mentality. We felt we could find a home here and craved more time in this enchanting place. But, just around the bend was an even more fulfilling place for a whole other reason…. Read about it in the next blog post; coming soon!

Wish You Were Here — Memories of My Dad


Today, I’m taking a little break from the regular strictly travel blogging to write an ode to my late father. It is interwoven into the travel story, and I’ll share how later. But, the real reason I’m writing and sharing this is because the only people who are truly dead are those we’ve forgotten about and I have not stopped thinking of him on my journey, especially lately. He is alive and thriving in my thoughts and I’d like you all to know about a little bit about him through my lived experience.

Foods that remind me of my dad: apple strudel, schnitzel and potato salad, and a favorite dinner classic of ours, chicken cordon blue.

Two years ago today, my heart shattered into a zillion pieces. It was the day that hope died and it all started before dawn. That day proceeded two previous years of brutal treatments and an entire lung removal, one of the most painful surgeries on the books. It was after two years of constantly praying for better test results, and living within someone else’s pain that I couldn’t take away. It was two years of learning a new definition of love, one that includes care and forgiveness as its tenants and sees mistakes as part of the imperfectly perfect human form. It included happy moments that I tried desperately to hold onto and nights of endless crying jags where Jason had to comfort me for hours.

Time heals the immediacy of the shock and pain you feel after a death, but it doesn’t change what happened. What time does change, in fact, is you.

Just a day or so after he passed. Jason took this and I feel it sums up so much.

I don’t have any grandparents left and I haven’t since I was 25, so death was no stranger to me. But, losing my dad was wholly different. He was too young to go and had too much left to accomplish in this world. He was a big teddy bear of kindness and an encyclopedia of the world’s knowledge. He could do anything, from building a house from the ground up, to constructing a custom car, to creating a thriving garden. He would say to me growing up again and again, “You know I won’t be around forever, Jen, so you have to learn this now.” I would harshly respond, “I know, I know. Stop saying that!”. Those words just felt so morbid and I didn’t want to face it. In my heart of hearts I knew this is what would become of his fate. His words only sealed it for me and made me worry about his impending illness and passing well before he was ever diagnosed. His constant coughing, even after he quit smoking, made my stomach turn. It never became normal; it always hurt my heart and made me wretch with anxiety. I know my brother and his sister have said the same, so we all shared in that aching worry over beloved friend.

My hair looks goofy, but I cherish this picture with all my heart.

I wish I could say I was worried over nothing, but I wasn’t. I worried until it happened. I didn’t cause the lung cancer by predicting it, I just made my worries a reality. I’ll never forget the poor way I reacted to the news. When my dad told me he had cancer I said, “I knew it! I knew this was going to happen.” and… I didn’t hug him. There’s plenty to be ashamed about in this world and this is at the top of my list of shameful acts. I should have exercised compassion and said, “I’m so sorry. This is terrible news. I love you very much and I’m here for you no matter what.” But, I said, I told you so. What a dick.

This man deserved better. It’s still my favorite old picture of him.

Throughout the next two years I did become more compassionate, more loving, and more hugging of my dad. My dad was never much of a hugger, but I know he always wanted hugs and just didn’t know how to give them. I decided that, as an adult, I would take the initiative and hug him no matter what. I’m so glad that I did, because by dropping my ego I was able to be more kind and affectionate to him when he needed it most. You can change a relationship for the better with one decision. I’m living proof.

No problem with my arms around him here.

Throughout this journey I’ve thought of the kinds of questions my dad would be asking me and what he’d be telling me if we were able to have phone calls or write letters/emails. What connected him and I most strongly was our endless love of learning. He taught me how to do research for the sake of wanting to know more about the world and how it works. Growing up at dinner time, my parents and I would have a dictionary on the table, looking up words and talking about their meaning. Talk about pre-smartphone days!

Before he lost his hair, about a year before he died.

I think my dad would be insanely worried about where I’m at, but also proud of me for being so bold as to leave the comforts of home and venture. He always said to me, “Be careful!” and meant it. He worried like I worry. My mom, on the other hand, is the sane one that accepts how life works and doesn’t get caught up in the worries like we do. Still, through his worries, my dad would have wanted to know how I was witnessing the world and what life is like on the other side. He’d ask about how people live in Taiwan, or how beach wildlife is doing in Thailand, or how people even move around in crowded India. He’d love the food we’re eating in Poland and Austria (and will have in Germany), but otherwise he’d take a pass on the rest of it.

My mom told me the further you get from his death the easier it will be to remember the good parts of his life, and she’s right. When he first passed it was so hard to stop thinking about all the painful years he had and how brutal the ending was. Now, I look at the world and think, “Oh, my dad would have loved to see this little beer stein (even though he didn’t drink he collected them). I wish I could get him a souvenir.” or “Geez, what would my dad think of this craziness! He’d be so worried about me!” The dreams of him suffering have slowed too, where he was on the brink of death. The only solace I had in those dreams was he was moving, living, in my mind, and I could talk to him again. But, he was in pain, and for what it’s worth even in my mind I’d prefer him to be at peace than in pain. This song always reminds me of him, he loved James Taylor, and I’ll always love this song.

My mom and I will meet again in less than one month in Ireland! It’s a dream of hers to go and visit the place where her ancestors came from. She’s wanted to see Ireland for probably her entire life. I’m so moved that we get to take this journey together, along with my Aunt Monica and Jason. It’s going to be the trip of a lifetime. Having my mom around, even though I’m far from her, helps. I try not to worry about her as much as I did with my dad, she’s healthier and happier than he ever was and she wants to stay that way. I do still worry, and she knows it, but I’m worried far less for her now than I was before. If something terrible happens then it happens and we’ll deal with it. For now, “It’s all good.” as she says.

I’ve had my belief in the importance of family strengthened throughout my journey. I’m working on doing nothing more to compromise those valuable relationships, only to strengthen them. I’ve not always been a great family member to all of my loved ones, but they are my loved ones and I want to make sure I do my best to be there for them and love them. I will continue to fail and I apologize to all that I’ve hurt whom I love. Please accept this human’s humble heart and know she doesn’t want to do you any harm, even if she has before. She’s learned so much and only wants to love you and know you. She needs her family more than you know.

My mom and I in Nashville, when I was a skinny young farmer, five years ago. I missed her so much!

The journey continues. We have less a little more than two months before we return. It’ll be a great time and we’re very grateful for the opportunity. I’ll finish up that Europe Part II blog soon (it’s almost done, promise!) but I couldn’t let this day pass without sharing these thoughts with you. Sending you my love and tenderness.

Lessons from My Asian Sojourn


We’re seven months into this insane eleven month trip and for all but three weeks we were in Asia, a place I previously had no intention of visiting. Why would I not be interested in visiting the area of the world where most of the people live? Plenty of reasons come to mind, but chiefly I was afraid it would be too different and too difficult. Language barriers wouldn’t be traversable. People would push and shove. Transportation would be impossible due to unreliable schedules and insane driving. I’d get sick. I’d be overwhelmed. I’d be bored. I’d be lonely. I’d be missing home.
It’s easy to worry when you don’t know what you’re up against. But, “worry is the interest paid in advance on a debt you may never owe.” It’s stress for stresses sake. This is not to say I was completely wrong in my worries, but that my worries were in part easily managed in the face of living through them and often totally overblown or entirely misplaced.
A few of the lessons that Asia has taught me is:

  • Trains run on time, almost all of the time. Even when we’ve believed we were going to have a flight delayed or a bus would be late it hardly ever happened and never interfered with our schedule. It feels like a myth, or just a sad misfortune, that so many people have had experiences where their mode of transportation was completely late or even non-existent. Most of the time people are on time, at least all throughout Asia.
  • You can communicate without words. That said, almost everyone has a basic understanding of English that we spoke with, but even for those who knew nothing more than hello there was still common ground to be found and transactions to be made. Smiles are your greatest currency when speaking without words. Kindness can get you so far. I’ve eaten food without being able to speak a word to the food stall owner, just pointing and nodding. I’ve played with kids in the street who chase me with sticks for swords and RWAR at me. I’ve gotten through so much with “Hello” and “Thank you” alone. It’s not perfect, but it’s not as hard as you’d imagine.

    Beauty is wordless
  • Street food isn’t going to kill you, most of the time. While I had a few run-ins with some illness along the way, with one recent notable experience in Bangkok, but I ate almost exclusively street foods for months without major incident. Jason has never had a true case of food poisoning this entire time and despite a little sickness along the way it was worth the tastes and experiences to eat soup on a tiny stool and throw napkins on the ground when you’re done (it’s hard to “litter”, but that’s how it works sometimes! They sweep it up.). Street food showed us what culture is, because people express themselves through their regional ingredients and we are big lovers of that expression.

    We didn’t eat these, but we would have!
  • You’re never far from luxury if you really want it. While not every hotel or guesthouse we stayed in was exceptional, most were above and beyond what I expected when we first planned this venture. Only once did we not have air conditioning and that was my mistake. Beds are harder here (our “mattress” in Mumbai, as I write this, is about two inches thick) and the bathrooms are “wet”, meaning they shower in the same space as the toilet and sink so everything gets wet, but mostly you have the same western standards available that you’d expect anywhere in America. There are Asian “squatty potties” here too, meaning you don’t sit but instead straddle a hole, facing forward, to go to the bathroom and then use a hose, or bidet, as your cleaning practice. It’s something you get used to, but almost always you can find a regular western style toilet too. Even if there are things that aren’t as comfortable as home, almost everything is still fine after some adjusting.
    You get used to goats being in the city, but you still think they’re adorable.

    Food wise, if I ever wanted pizza or eggs and toast I could find it no problem. We in fact ate pizza at least half a dozen times. Mexican food doesn’t translate well outside of the US or Mexico, but we even had that a few times to get a different taste than rice or noodles day in and day out. If you want to eat something, most often you can find a place that will serve you at least an approximation of that dish.

    Prawns. Fresh!
  • Road rules are mere suggestions, most of the time. In Japan, Hong Kong, and Singapore there is considerably more order while driving, but in almost every other place we went the amount of people who took road signs and signals as suggestions far outnumbers those that followed them, leading to overall “chaos” most of the time. You can adapt to chaos though. Traffic here is a flow, and as my friend Jon Dallas said about Vietnamese traffic, “There’s always room for you”. Horns indicate you’re there, you’re turning, you’re in someone’s blind spot, or less frequently that you’re pissing someone off. While Malaysia and Cambodia had considerably less horns blowing even these places are uproarious compared to the way we use horns in the states.
    Proof Vietnam is made for bikes. and bikes love to use their horns

    Walking across the street was a challenge that started in our first country, Korea. You just learn that you move with the flow of traffic and no one wants to hit you, just don’t stutter. Jason would get very frustrated with me if I started panicking in the middle of the road, because it’s more dangerous to slow down or stop completely while crossing than move at a steady pace. Be predictable and you won’t get hurt.

    Walking along a roadside in Malaysia.
  • It’s OK to be bored, lonely, and unsure, some of the time. My fears about how I’d feel were in some ways spot on and in other ways self induced. I have had moments of deep and utter boredom. “How?!” I hear you asking. Because, we have had so much downtime that we’ve spent days just sitting in hotel rooms, only leaving once per day to eat or get supplies. Not having a job adds immensely to your “time”. Having no hobby increases this into new dimensions of ennui. Of course we saw amazing sites and had many days of what seemed like endless travel and adventure, but between those we waited. We waited in airports for hours on end because we’re always early to flights. We sat and stared at the walls (read: internet) because we decided there was a greater need to save money than going out and doing one more expensive excursion. We did miss going seeing things I’d have loved to see, like the country of Myanmar or other parts of Indonesia, and there were a few temples, waterfalls, and caves that would have put a little more magic into the trip, but we still found plenty to keep occupied with along the way.  I wish I could say I found a better way to occupy my restless mind, but I haven’t, and it’s a struggle I hope is soon alleviated with the faster pace that Europe is going to provide.

    When I’m bored I can remember I was here.
  • You’re never going to get it “right”. I’ve been craving bigger travel challenges lately. I have a friend who’s hiking the Pacific Crest Trail and I’m madly jealous. She’s going to sleep under the stars, play in the woods, survive on her own will and trail magic. How cool! If I keep up at this logic I’ll never be “happy” with our trip. If I want deeper challenges, now that our trip has become easier due to greater experience, than I need to build that in. Every trip could have been better, had more fun, more relaxation or excitement or adventure, but if you don’t accept that it’s going just fine the way it is you’ll never be happy. Be happy where you are or what’s the point of going anywhere or seeing anything new if it’s never enough?
  • It’s worth it. So many people tell me “I wish I could travel” and, while finances can absolutely hold you back, it’s really an inability to plan or a lack of motivation that keeps them stuck. I met a 78 year old man traveling solo in Malaysia. I met an Egyptian Muslim women traveling for four months in India by herself. I’ve seen a couple who were both in wheelchairs on the beach of Malaysia, drinking cocktails and talking to locals. If you want to go to Southeast Asia it’s not a matter of money, once you buy your flight over, but more so a matter of how far you’re willing to leave your cushy comfort zone. Believe me, I didn’t want to go! I understand the draws of comfort and stability. But, I’m glad I did and I know people who tell me they “can’t” most likely could and just aren’t finding the motivation to push through and make it happen. If you want to go, you should commit to it. If you don’t really want to go, that’s OK too, but don’t let yourself hold you back if it’s what you truly desire.

I could tell you more lessons that I’ve learned about myself and my travels. I could celebrate or complain. But, I’ll leave it here for now, because I need to leave at midnight to catch this flight to Greece at 6:20 a.m. tomorrow morning. See you in the EU!

Coconut trees standing tall, bearing their heavy fruits
Banana bunches reaching desperately for the ground
Buzzing mosquitos, barking dogs, beeping cars
Bitter melon and sour soups
The inescapable heat that leads to endless summer blossoms
Water in, sweat it out
Drink it in again
With urgency now, to quench your thirst
Drink it in one last time
Realizing not the depths you’ve dove
Or how much you may miss this moment
Years from now
As the details turn to dust
All you have is that feeling in your chest
About how it once was
About how good it felt to be