Travel Doesn’t Change You


There’s a common belief that when you travel, you change. As in, your fundamental being evolves. You become stronger, wiser, more compassionate, and more worldly. People even think you become a truly better person.

There’s mystery in long term travel. The nomadic lifestyle is no longer the human norm that it was for millennia. Over 10,000 years ago we put down agricultural roots and stopped the incessant roaming. But, even before we planted those gardens we had maps in our heads and tracks passed down by our ancestors. We had a sense of direction, a path to follow. Traveling for travel’s sake takes the purpose out and replaces it with wandering.

We’ve been on the road for over 5 months now and have visited 10 countries on two continents. It’s our midway point, according to our plan, as we are endeavoring to spend 11 months abroad in total. It’s time for a mid-trip check in.

When we arrived in Korea I was convinced this wouldn’t last. I’d tell people, “Well, the plan is…” Instead of “We are going to” because I was not confident in our ability to make it the entire near year timeframe together without falling apart. I’m still not wholly convinced we will, but we’ve at least made it this far.

In terms of the good, there’s principally the food. Eating our way around the world has been a joy. We’ve tried a few things we’d never have had access to in the states along with dishes that are far more perfected here than back home. I’ll never look at Chinese food the same way again after Singapore and I sadly know I’ll never again find pork noodle soup that melts my soul in the same way.

This is not that soup, it’s laksa, but this soup is damn good!

Being able to experience cuisine as it’s culturally intended, like pho on little stools on the streets of Vietnam or fish from a world famous Japanese fish market, changes your relationship to the dish. It’s a way of directly participating in an active cultural exchange by doing something as simple as being part of a city’s natural rhythms. Experiencing food from this vantage point has been a highlight of my entire experience, even if it can be difficult to figure out what I’m ordering!

Australian cuisine — Look familiar?

Another bold proclamation I can make is that I’m more adept at navigating a new city than I previously was. Moving once every 10 days, on average, during this trip has meant I need to re-coordinate my sense of direction, how to move through traffic, where I’m sleeping at night, and, if this is a good place for public transit, how to navigate that as well.

Other things I’ve also mastered include:

  • picking out a decent hotel, most of the time, for a reasonable rate.
  • walking across a busy street and not be hit by a motorbike, car, or bus (there’s no other way to cross the street in some places)
  • how to negotiate price with a street vendor (still working on that, but getting better!)
  • how to not feel so badly saying no, because I often have to say no
  • how to find little comforts in strange situations (something that for many decreases with age)

Balance is the key to life. By sharing negative feelings, my intention isn’t to drive pity in any way. I just don’t like adding a veneer of glitter to a situation that doesn’t always shine. False positivity for the sake of someone else’s well being doesn’t serve anyone. That said, I’ll share some truths I’ve felt along this journey thus far.

Balance!

At writing, I have a yucky head cold, my second of the trip. At home, I’ll go a year without being sick. Now, I’m sick more often due to general contact with thousands of people and poorer hygienic conditions. I’m also battling traveler’s sickness (at writing, I’m feeling better), which kept me up for hours last night and in our hotel room all day today. I wish I could say I spent the day reading and researching, but I wasted it on the internet like I would at home. Overall, I feel physically off. It’s probably the cold and my body fighting for health, but something just doesn’t seem right.

Being here makes it that much more nerve wracking to be ill because, what if something is actually wrong with me? I have no “real” health insurance, we’re going to be in Vietnam for another three weeks and then head to even poorer conditions in Cambodia. There’s just no ability to just go to a decent doctor here and that frankly scares the shit out of me, whether I feel excellent or under the weather. Jason thinks I’m a paranoid hypochondriac. I imagine he’s probably right, but that doesn’t make my stomach stop hurting and my mind stop racing. For all of America’s faults at least when I’m at home AND can afford health insurance I could feasibly go to a doctor (and pay unknown amounts of money if something truly is the matter with me). Generally not feeling right for long stretches is not an enjoyable part of travel and I wonder how many other people feel this way when they take this kind of thing on.

Mentally, I’m full of ups and downs. This week I was able to see an old friend from home, twice, which enriched our experience and was something I was looking forward to for many months. Spending time with a friend who knows you, who isn’t your life/travel partner, is great for a refresh anywhere you are, but especially when you’re so far from home. Very grateful for our time together!

In terms of the life partner situation, being with someone 24/7 is strenuous for even the strongest of partnerships and so this has been a trying time for the two of us. I think, in some ways, we’ve made big strides from where we were before we left, because we have to rely on one another for help, but that same reliance can lead to resentment. Today, for example, Jason went to get me food because I didn’t feel well enough to leave the room, which I’m so grateful for. There are times though that I just want to do something myself, fully and completely, and it’s hard for me to communicate that well without being snarky. I can be quite mean to Jason at times and say things that hurt. I’m not always good at the whole emotional processing thing and can be terribly childish. It’s something I’ve got to work on every day and, unfortunately, hasn’t markedly improved over the past few months.

With no other outside outlets to really help us process our feelings, I can get a little stuck. Combine that with that we aren’t working and we aren’t doing anything besides travelling, there’s little else to draw our attention to other than the stupid internet outside of when we’re touring a new place. This can make one feel lonely and isolated. I’d love a hobby, but a portable hobby isn’t something I’ve figured out how to pick up yet.

Existential guilt is another fun feeling I’m encountering. Affording this lifestyle, regardless of how I “earned it” leaves me with a little shame. I’ve spoken about this before. Money is a tool, not a tie down to a certain place and I understand that very well, but it doesn’t make the guilt less  prominent. I’m asked by everyone what I’m going to do when I go back home. I have no idea, honestly. Am I going to live in Baltimore? Am I going to work a normal job again? Am I going to go back to the 50+ hours per week work schedule norm? I feel like yes, that will most likely happen, and that’s why I don’t see how this trip is really transforming the person I am to someone I’d rather be. I’ll probably become more “normal” than when I left off I do end up having a child or buying a home, things that I’ve spoken about before not being strong driving forces in myself.

Work life balance is a great catch phrase, but watching people work all over the world makes me realize everyone puts in long hours for little wages to make ends meet. It’s imperative if you’re not independently wealthy. Maybe I’ll see a new world in Europe where human society has advanced, but it’s difficult to imagine. Regardless, you have to work, you have to make money, and you probably will find fault with even the most noble employer and their business practices.

Time is ceaseless and we’re already halfway through this epic adventure. Everyday, I want to take more risks, give more of my time and money to people and places that deserve it, provide a meaningful impact on this world instead of just receiving every step of the way. I want to experience the fullness of life whenever I live it through hard work and deep love. I want to see the world. I want to meet and taste the world. I want to know where people live and how they spend their time. This is nothing new. This travel hasn’t deeply changed me. It may have sharpened my focus in some places, but it’s created a layer of fuzz over other areas of my life that I once worked on. Travel hasn’t affected my dreams or severely shifted my reality. It has also not made me any better off a person. And, for the most part, I’m OK with that.

2016 Year of the Whew!


Happy New Year’s Day to all! In Malaysia, we’re 13 hours ahead of you all, and living in the future! We had a great time going out on NYE with new friends and partied like it’s 2016 while getting stoked for the crazy year to come!

The year 2016 was the year of the traveller, for me. :

  • Went to North Carolina for work to explore Raleigh for the first time in April
  • Finished my tenure at Relay Foods, where I worked for 3 and 1/2 years as the Regional Market Manager for DC and Baltimore in July
  • Travelled domestically with my mom to New York City (February), San Francisco (May), Bethlehem, PA, and Ocean City (both in August)
  • Had an excellent beach trip for the second year running in Ocean City with great friends that I love in June
  • Took 15 different flights, and yet take off and landing still freak me out!
  • Other than airplanes I’ve travelled via ferry, slow boat, train, moped, in the back of a pickup truck, in stranger’s cars, and several public transit systems in major world cities and mostly didn’t get lost or lose anything!
  • Travelled to 6 different countries: Korea, Japan, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Thailand, and Malaysia
  • Have seen orangutans, elephants, three types of monkeys, boar, monitor lizards, geckos, enormous spiders, water buffalo, jungle crows (I love crows), turtles, eels, rare butterflies, and dozens of other animals all outside of zoos and often in the wild.
  • Visited Shinto, Taoist , Confucius, Buddhist, Hindu, and Muslim places of worship.
  • Slept in over 20 hotels or other types of accommodations (I think the number is 23, but I might be missing one or two!)
  • Met my new friend Sage, Chris and Karen’s little guy, and became overjoyed to learn another best friend, Lindsey, is expecting in July! The clan is growing and I can’t wait to be home to hug you and your kids!
  • Started learning French again! (it’s the little things)

In 2017, we plan to go to about 15 countries, including a few places I’ve been before. Travel will definitely be the majority focus of the new year. If all goes according to plan we’ll have visited 4 continents and swam in the Pacific, Indian, and Atlantic ocean, along with the South China and Mediterranean seas, and have volunteered in several countries working on farms and doing other odd jobs for room and board. Adventure will probably win the word of the year award. Let’s see if that prediction sticks!

When I think about what’s coming up for my fellow Americans in 2017 I am not hopeful. You thought 2016 was bad… ha! Watch what 2017 has in store. The year will be rough whatever your political flavor is, because things are going to change and our anger is not going to dissipate. I’m resolved to be more tolerant of others, even when it hurts, and try to find the common ground. I love America and I want us to work this thing out. I will tell you people here in Malaysia at least seem hopeful for the US that our economy will flourish. Glad someone thinks we’re doing OK!

Have a great 2017 everyone and a happy New Year’s Day! Love and hugs!

Keeping the Books Abroad — How To Finance a Year Long Round the World Trip


Money is a dirty word. We really hate talking about it in the US. It’s so personal and completely uncouth. Because of that this post may be distasteful, intriguing, TMI, or even feel like bragging to you. My point in writing it is that we’re asked this question often and I know it was one of those things people tiptoed around in the US before we left. People say, “Wait, you don’t have a job and yet you’re traveling… for nearly a whole year?!” Yep, I agree, that’s kind of absurd. I didn’t think it was possible either, but I’d like to walk you through how we’re doing it.

First off, we’re not crazy rich or trust fund babies. Most of you know this, but it’s worth saying that, while we come from middle and upper middle class households, we were working professionals making our own way up until we left. We lived in a modest apartment in Baltimore City, together paying $850 for rent monthly, along with utility costs that added another $100 or so to the base cost of living. Add in other bills, and the general cost of having a young professional’s lifestyle, like drinking out, going for coffee, or eating a decent restaurants, we were spending quite a bit of money each month just existing (in a volume that’s greater than I care to think about). Neither Jason nor I are much into “things”. We aren’t much for buying stuff at least and prefer foods and experiences over the appeal of a new gadget. Because of this, and limited carrying capacity, we have a serious lack of souvenirs.

Can’t buy all the things, sadly.

Despite not being trustafarians, we did have well paying jobs that allowed us to save up during our planning process. Salary talk is again considered ill, but we made good money and held middle management positions in our companies. Being childless is also key here, because if we had a kiddo we’d have surely invested our cash into that little life.

A few months after Jason and I met he told me it was his dream to travel the world. It was not my dream. My dreams had been fairly well taken care of. When I was 27, I took my gap year to farm, then came back to work for a company that I thought was doing well for the world in a position that I enjoyed (almost) every day. My family and friends were close by. I lived in a city that I was invested in from a personal and professional standpoint. Plus, I had a habit of travelling a few times each year anyway, more than the average American does. I enjoy exploring various parts of America. Jason, on the other hand, needed to go beyond the sea to shining sea and see what life was like somewhere else. I didn’t even have a valid passport when we met. I wanted a dog.

Woof!

During the course of our relationship my dad got sick and eventually passed away. He left us in June of 2015. He was my top priority when he was alive. After we lost him I could start to entertain the idea of long term travel. We began discussing the idea more in depth. We had several emotional talks over our priorities as a couple and what the future held. I eventually said, “Yes” to a dream that I still felt was his, but was beginning to become mine. We started saving and planning.

In 2016, we really hit the ground running with our plans. Discussions surrounded routes, timelines, overall goals, health and insurance, backup plans, keep in touch with the people at home, equipment, and most important to the trip’s success: budget. We decided we’d like to spend $30,000 in total between us, all in. That figure meant we’d not drain our savings, nor will we have to put anything on the credit card, and we should still be able to see and do a decent chunk of what we wanted.

We knew from the get-go this was a budget travel trip, not luxury. No resorts, no crazy sightseeing tours, no overpriced excursions, no scuba certifications; nothing that would break the bank. This means we’re missing out on activities a casual, short term traveller would partake in where spending isn’t a concern, but if we didn’t skip some of that we would never be able to adhere to our budget. We also originally thought we’d only be gone nine months, but due to the crazy Affordable Care Act exemption requirements we had to extend to 11 to ensure we don’t get fined over $1,000 each for not having insurance for the past year. We did not increase our budget. Make that 30K stretch!

Kitty stretch in Kuching

It’s worth noting that prior to the trip, even though Jason and I lived together, we did not share finances. I’ve never shared my finances with a partner and rather liked it that way! I very fortunately had made enough that I didn’t have to. In the beginning, our lack of prior experience together in this area meant there was some fierce bickering about how money should be spent. I have a YOLO streak and that makes me more of a spender. Jason is far more frugal and can go without in ways that can feel torturous to me, but natural to him. He’d eat instant ramen from 7-11 every day if he was travelling solo. I’d drink expensive craft beer every time I got my hands on it. We’ve become better at compromise, now three months in, but it wasn’t easy at first.

We still don’t have a shared bank account, but we track our costs through an app that Jason has built specifically for our trip. Building the app helps keep his mind busy programming while providing a useful tool. It doesn’t just track expenses, it tracks the places we’ve been, our accommodations, the sights we’ve seen, and a map of it all, along with pictures and a beautiful interface. It tells you where we are today and where we’re going next. I’ll show you all one day, when it’s ready! 🙂

We planned on the trip having three distinct spending parts: expensive Asia, cheap Southeast Asia, and mostly expensive Europe. We were going to breeze through expensive Asia for the first five weeks, then spend five months or or in Southeast Asia, then finish the trip in Europe where some places would be insanely expensive and others more moderately priced. With this plan we’d never need to wear a winter coat and that means we’ll hardly ever check a bag (saving more $$). We did not plan to go to Australia, but after finding a great flight deal and a volunteer working opportunity that covers room and board we felt like it would be foolish not to go.

Former farmer days, 5 years ago, where room and board was the paycheck for hard work.

Summer of 2016 we made our first real trip purchase, tickets to Korea. We found a great deal on China Southern Airlines for $400 per person for the one way journey. It was 1/2 what we thought we would spend, so we felt it would be really foolish to turn it down. From there, we booked more flights and accommodations until the first six weeks were set up. By the end of July, we had all of expensive Asia booked and paid for, minus attractions and food. Pre-trip spending was around $4,000. Just because we spent it before the trip, while we had jobs, didn’t mean that we could increase our budget any, it just meant that we could pay for the trip with an inflow of cash versus strictly our savings.

Korean park views for the cost of a subway ride.

New Year’s Day puts us at exactly 1/3rd of the way through our trip. Because of the way that our budget works we should actually have spent less than 1/3rd of our budget by this point. This is due to our plan to be in “cheap” Southeast Asia for another few months. Unfortunately, we are more than 1/3rd of the way through our budget. How did this happen? Basically, we didn’t think attractions and food would cost as much as they have; our mistake. We were fairly spot on with our accommodation estimates. Flights are a little more expensive than we bargained for, but not by an exorbitant amount. It’s just the day to day living that’s driving our costs higher than expected. Now, since we’re headed to very expensive Australia next, we have to be extra vigilant on our spending.

This is corn soup. It can’t be expensive, right?

Below, you can see how we’ve arranged the budget. This is collective, not separate, so together we want to keep the spending at $90 per day throughout the entire trip, averaged out. Clearly, in very expensive cities like Tokyo, Singapore, and Rome, we’re going to go way over that so we need to compensate by going far below in the cheaper places. Right now in Kuching, we’re spending about $40 per day all in and we’re staying here for one month. Everyday here, before we do, eat, or drink anything, we are paying $20.50 for our hostel (at $16.50 per night) and the transportation to fly here ($4 per day on average). Today we had one meal out that cost $7 for the both of us. So, that means our total today was 27.50. Many days we spend more than that. Every ringgit/dollar counts. But, it’s cheap in Kuching! We love that, and that’s why we planned to stay here for so long. However, since we’re not just spending whatever we want whenever we want we are going to miss a few special attractions. C’est la vie.

Something to note is we’ve received some very generous monetary gifts from friends and family. We are extremely grateful for their goodwill, but we’re trying not to have that alter our 30K mark. As Jason has reminded me time and again, it’s nice to have extra money, but it shouldn’t affect how we spend day to day. Yes, sometimes we can do something extra special and attribute it to a gift, but we can’t just increase the budget. Again, I’m a spender, he’s a saver, so he’s being reasonable and I’m desiring excesses.

Once we make it to Europe we plan to visit several of the must see spots, but we also plan to work on farms or do other kinds of volunteering to both become part of the community in a that way a tourist can’t and to save money. Trading labor for housing and food is something I’ve done before and adore. I wish more of the world was set up like this. Europe has a greater number of opportunities for this than in the US, so if you’re thinking about long term travel I encourage you to consider this as a way to save money and really meet local people.

I’m not exactly sure what will happen in the next few months money wise. My mom asked me if we go over budget do we go home early? Probably not. We’d have to go pretty significantly over budget to do that. That said, when we get back our goal of buying a house and settling down is more important than this trip, so if that reality feels compromised we’ll definitely consider it. We talk about our spending on a daily basis, so this isn’t something we’re ignoring or doing without much though; it’s a balancing act.

New friends took us jungle trekking. Only paid for the guide and snacks + made awesome new friends!

Next off topic-topic is packing! That post won’t nearly be as long, but it’ll certainly have more pictures! Thanks for tuning in. Until next time. Happy New Year!